Tag Archives: bristol

Climbing at Tirpentyws, wow what a crag!

We managed to sneak out of Bristol for a sunny climb this Sunday and it did not dissapoint.

A absolutely fantastic crag for those wanting to either take first steps into sport climbing outside or push their grades with confidence (if climbing at the 6b to 6c mark).

Well bolted, easy access, 10/10 crag comfort and almost definitely strong rock with little to no chance of falling rocks.

I went with intention of working, I knew there were a few newer climbers planning on being there and with it being a Sunday I was just happy to be out and even happier to help out, teach a little and set up top ropes.

The crag is perfect for training for those want to push their grade good bolts and quick link loweroffs , its easy to romp up a load of routes in no time, so of course in between helping I did managed to sneak in few routes. (can you call 10 routes “sneaking a few in”)

The climbing at Tirpentyws

The climbing is great, great moves on good holds, what else is there!? With small edges to large incut pockets this crag has my favourite style of climbing.

The climbing is either vertical or just off (both ways), there is nothing to steep to climb at the crag, it lends itself to a mix of delicate climbing with the classic edges found on sand stone and, in the harder grades, some big throw moves.

All the routes are well equipped and have chain and quick link loweroffs

The walk in to Tirpentyws

From the car park leave and head up the shallow valley sticking the fire-track. Simply follow this slightly up hill for around 10mins before the crag appears. Easy!

Climb over the fence at the small style and ignore the signs saying no climbing (this apparently is there for liability issues) and your there.

The climbing and crag layout at Tirpentyws

The easier climbs wrap the outer edges of the crag while the classic 6c and 7b can be found slightly left of the middle routes. I think the line of the crag was the 6c up the left hand side of the main face, the route quality line from start to finish, with what seems like only one way to do it, no matter your height.

There are plenty of great 6’s a quality pump 6b+ on the left along with lots of different and interesting climbing across the whole crag.

Honestly, its a absolute gem of a crag. with fun and safe routes everywhere.

[button link=”http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8695″ color=”default” size=”” type=”” shape=”” target=”_blank” title=”” gradient_colors=”|” gradient_hover_colors=”|” accent_color=”” accent_hover_color=”” bevel_color=”” border_width=”1px” shadow=”” icon=”” icon_divider=”yes” icon_position=”left” modal=”” animation_type=”0″ animation_direction=”down” animation_speed=”0.1″ alignment=”left” class=”” id=””]UKC logbook for Tirpenstwys[/button]

How to get to Tirpentyws

From Bristol it takes around 45 minutes, almost quicker than cheddar. Its easy to get and not far off the motorway the directions below are taken from UKC.com

There are 2 ways to approach this crag.

1. If coming from Pontypool/Blaenavon. Turn off the A4043 into Pontnewynydd Industrial Estate follow this road to a T junction just past the Post office sorting depot. Turn left up the hill along the road passing the Plas y Coed pub on your left, continue straight on the road will become lined with ancient beech trees. About 150 mts further along on the right hand side are the 2 old entrances to what was Tirpentwys Tip. Park in either.

2.If coming from Crumlin. In Hafodyrynys turn left off the A472, then take the road that runs down the side of the chinese takeaway. After about 70mts fork right up the steep hill go round the hairpin bend and pass the Star inn on your left. Cross over a cattle grid, the road levels out, continue straight on crossing a second cattle grid, pass the houses of Pantygasseg on your left following the road down the hill. The 2 entrances to the old tip are on your left in about 250mts.

To the Crag. Go through the green metal barrier(top entrance) onto the tarmac road and follow this for about 200mts until it bends to the right, at this point go straight on following the gravel road you will pass a footbridge on your left after 150 mts, 50 mts after this cross the small drainage ditch on the right, the crag will now be visible approx’ 100mts on the right. There is a style fixed to the fence to allow easy access.

To coincide with the start of the new season(2009), it looks like the council are building a nice new car park at the lower of the 2 entrances, this will provide an excellent facility and make using the top entrance unecessary, thanks Torfaen.

The nice new car park has been closed because of vandalism, fly tipping and drug abuse, there is a new metal barrier in place which is locked. I spoke to the council, the car park will now operate on a key holder scheme, so if you are local and want a key contact torfaen they will send the forms to fill in so you can have your own key, please use this responsibly.” – Taken from UKC


Last Tuesday I found myself at Brean Down. Gavin Edwards, a friend from Bloc, had never been sport climbing before, or rather, had not been hard sport climbing, knowing Gav was strong inside I was keen to take him onto the rock.

Gavin, with his military background had be a adventure based climber for many years but now with his grips in Blocs bouldering centre he was keen to make those hard moves outside to see how he got on.

We Left Bristol on a early Tuesday morning and headed to “Costa del Brean”, nicknamed due to its sun trapping cove and beach.

high tide while climbing at brean

Normally an easy walk in to the climbs is expected this time however the tide was high, very high, forcing us to walk around the top rather than across the beach. Gavin seemed unable to escape the adventurist part of climbing.

For more info on climbing at Brean Down visit UKC here



A happy Gav after a days climbing

A happy Gav after a days climbing

Varsity 2015 UWE vs Bristol UNI

On Wednesday the 25th of March I held the Varsity 2015 climbing competition in Bristol for the UWE and Bristol UNI.

It was a great event with everyone helping each other out. All the climbers, even from different teams, were helping each other throughout the entire event. I even found UWE helping to tally all the Varsity scores.

Someone had to win… this year it was Bristol UNI climbing teams turn to win varsity 2015

The varsity score was based on the the top 10 male climbers and top 4 female climbers of each team so no final was needed and even a draw at the top did not matter as long as one UNI team came out on top.

However, everyone loves a final so I knocked one together with the students helping to judge, score and brush the holds, it was definitely a team effort.

After the event to celebrate or drown their sorrows both teams stayed at Bloc climbing centre for a few beers and a BBQ that they were hosting themselves.

Nothing else to say except thanks to all those that came and made the varsity climbing competition such a classic.


After a off the cuff of the meeting with Andy Torbet yesterday at Bloc I certainly left feeling psyched again for a bit more writing and a few adventures.

We were covering all subjects although most were relating to self-publicizing and how make the most of yourself and adventures no matter how big or small.

Steve Winslow Riding through lockingtonThe takeaway, if I had to choose one, was to get out and do something, anything really, write about it and take a few snaps. Previously I have thought less of small ideas and trips, either not bothered with them or not written them up. Andy was right though, they may not be the biggest and most riskiest story, but a they are still a story. Its easy to forget, especially, when you are surrounded by outdoor and outgoing people that the majority of people would never dream, let alone actually get up on a Friday morning, do a hour of chores then head out on a 3.5hr bike ride to meet their partners for a surprise lunch… which is, as you might have guessed, what I have been doing today.

Without question it was a great and memorable day out, full of mistakes, near misses and punctures.

Second phase fun

Trainline home from a nice days ridingSat here on the train ride back from Kemble to Temple meads (also testing out the wordpress app for ios) I have a real sense of relaxation, you may think that should pride or achievement, but for me its just relaxation, getting out having a blast, stopping where I want and solving a few issues, then when its over  jumping on a train headed home in time for work is just too simple not to enjoy and come away feeling tired but fresh.


So cheers Andy for the inspiration and for getting me up and out the house on a foggy morning (lets plan some something big over a beer).


Details of the Ride (Bristol – Kemble)

A write up of the ride will follow very soon for those that are keen to repeat or to get a simple idea going. Keep an eye out for updates on FB, Twitter and G+