Hit up Cheddar again ( 28/6/11 ) today and fancied somewhere of the normal crag list, so we headed to Scary Monster Wall on Castle Rocks and we weren’t disappointed, great crag and saw no one all day.
The walk in is good fun, well sort of, you have to head up shoot gully , which is the gully behind the coach turning circle, and take the second terrace you come across on your right. Next head all the way along the crag side following long wall along and down until you meet the catch fence connecting to the wall. If you look towards the road with the crag to your back then you should see arch rock and the back of horseshoe.
We had about 4 hours or so before work so we quickly found a 6b to warm up on, Goats R Us is a great little route which is the start of a 2 pitch route. cox was keen to get something done so we headed over to the furthest route, Postcard From Titan, a great 7b+ , Cox went for the on-sight, if i have ever seen any one deserve to get it in one it was then! through the roof and some hard moves onto a huge span to a fairly good hold to set up in for the thin crux which pulls around the groove and onto the face, at which point and emblematic of Cheddar and a crag which doesn’t see many visits all the holds seemed to vanish and no clues from previous climbs became a problem, a big problem , Cox fought and fought and with one big span to many he was off! he finshed the route figured the crux and came down for a power snack and a rest. My turn, jumped on and quickly found it hard, very hard., managed it on toppy, with 3 or 4 rests , just simple not having the minerals, yet.
Back on, Cox seemed to have no problem and crushed it, stripped and lowered.
Onto the next route, Zoot Horn Rolo 7a+, my lead and got spanked straight away. really hard clip over the roof and a hard move to match, second time round, much easier with the 2nd clip in, push on the the on-sight after a few falls, worked the route , dogged the clips in then made the mistake of looking at the top section after the last bolt, slightly runout and a slab to finish, praying that i wouldn’t even have to do one move! on the slab and it was just the cause of mantling and standing up i pushed on and of course was rewarded as always for bravery, easy move and the lower offs are there, clipped sorted the rope and lowered off to work the crux on the way down. Cox’s turn, my feeling of slight happiness as he struggled through the roof and the first few moves quickly evaporated as he cruised the rest.
My turn again, and with a stern word with myself about footwork and for christ sake get it sorted, left the ground and thankfully i was only heading back down after clipping the lower offs. A great route with big moves to good holds, 1 or 2 thin moves at the top pull over onto the slab and your done.
A great crag and one to return to, there looks like a few other good warms to try <name> and another 7a left of <name> and of course come back for <name>. it’ll have be next year though as we are at the end of the season for the south side and have to return September 4th at the reopening.
Stingers at chest height and no seat for cox = Crag Comfort: 1