Come on then who has climbed these before?…
Myself and Dave T squeezed in another couple of climbing routes at Avon recently before work
Abseiling of the large few tree from a top rope session on Edgemaster we noticed a peg behind a large detached looking bloc looking at the guide showed no routes so we were intrigued…new Routes? surely not.
Still with time left before work at 12 Dave jumped on what looked like a hard groove leading up to Nightmare and I was keen for the line with ( even coming from a sport climber ) a pointless peg in a perfectly protect-able crack.
They climbed well, one was hard, short but hard. Well worth a play. Good gear and bouldery ( which is rare for sea walls ) and one that was a nice alternative direct and more technical start to Nightmare.
Sarah-Jane has lead Super Direct Nightmare and Dean Russell has jumped on Before Bloc agreeing with their grades and also wondering how they have never done or noticed the lines before.
Route 1 – Lead by Dave
Named ( if no ascent claimed ) : Super Direct Nightmare
A line that takes the direct climbing line through to Nightmare, cutting of the curve of the line in the Avon Climbing Guide, The route climbs direct up to the first tree at half height of nightmare, staying in the groove left of the large balanced bloc.
A steady VS with good gear and no polish, climbs much easier than it looks and too me is a much nicer and more technical climbing line for Nightmare.
Route 2 – Led by Steve
Name ( if no ascent claimed): Before Bloc E1 5c
Possible E1 5c, Bomber gear but some good technical, tough moves, if you can read ( and reach ) the first couple of wires the start leads to some good bouldery moves, even sneaking in a solid knee bar to place a higher wires. Good cams in the break follow after that, before mount the small shelf and laying of the arete before reach a good jug and moving into the break of Nightmare.
Essentially the route stays right and mounts the large detached looking bloc, staying right until large flat hold is found.
Contact me for climbing coaching and training or just to have a chat to see if how I can help