Quick 1 Day rock climbing trip to Torbay
Myself, Matt Cox and Yan headed to down to climb in Torbay, specifically to get some long awaited DWS in at London Bridge area.
With none of us having been there before and as I have not been deep water soloing for a very long time we were of course psyched to get to it, with little begging to get the car for the day and a early start we were off, well me and Cox were off Yans body was in the back, his mind elsewhere, somewhere between a coma and disneyland due the night before.
The Crag did not disappoint, absolutely fantastic rock in a phenomenal position with the easiest approach in the world, lucky for Yan.
As a bonus to already top crag I cannot remember the see every being that warm. Yes, I did fall in, a lot.
Fantastic to be rock climbing again without time pressure
Probably what made the day was having literally nothing else to do, with a strict no laptop policy on the weekend I managed to climb without any thoughts of websites problems and technical issues, it sure showed in my climbing, Although of course the normal death grip on the rock was there to be fought against I felt the rest of my climbing was better than I hoped for the first time back above the see.
Needless to say Matt Cox Crushed in the normal style we are accustomed to seeing him climb. At one point, mentioned he was just going to pop down and try the traverse but ended up quickly smashing the line of the crag (Jehovah Kill 7b), Why I asked him at the top ” Cause when you see a line of chalk.. you have to to go for it man”…seemed normal enough.
While Yan got a few in before the toll of the night before reduced him to the fetal position and sleep.
The Routes on the Day.
Duck l’Orange 3+
Somthing Ducky 3+
Crispy Duck, No Noodles 4
Duckless in Torbay 3+
Last Duck to Bombay 6a+
Dance on Dinkies 6c+ ( Cox only ) – An amazing difficult and thin start leading to only harder and thinner climbing.
Freddy the Frog Hits Torquay 6a+ – A great little line with a spicy little finish if you stay true and in the groove, high enough to have to think a little.
Arch Temptress 6a+ ( Steve only ) – A monster of a route, climbing under the fangs of a T-rex( bridge ) then ever boldly climbing up and up huge flakes with evermore slow breathing, the higher the tide the braver you will be be, but safe all the way.
Pumping Dancefloor Energy 7a+ ( Steve and Cox, 1 rp ) – Will definitely be doing again, the route had it all, with the crux high up. All the holds are there, only far apart. Absolute gem, hard work, high feet and a calm mind pays off at the top.