New routing before noon
After another late night with Dave Talbot he had convinced once again that Trad climbing was the way forward. He described a crag that was steep, stays dry, where no ones goes or has heard of and that he and Henry had cleaned over a year ago but had never climbed.
How could i refuse a little tuesday morning mission before work into the woods of the wye valley for a little climb and adventure.
Not really expecting to get any climbing done except possibly a bit of top roping on some loose rock we were both pretty relaxed about the morning, well I thought we were both relaxed day had not fared as well from the night before as I, so much so that I have never seen dave so nervous of rock,spiders,ropes,edges and even, in my opinion the ground itself, which dave was convinced we were destined to fall off of at any minute.
After arriving at the bottom of the crag a few abseils in the wrong location we were in.
Abseiling into the crag, the first thing to notice, was the steepness. At the end of the rope I think i was around 5 metres from the bottom of the crag! Its steep and dry with a large ledge at the bottom.
The crag is around 10m wide and could sustain a few routes, perhaps around 6 if we stay keen!
We had a good session of ripping off a few holds and ivy and a small session top roping the possible E4 only to have too many holds rip and hit me in the face to be called fun anymore. I had spotted a line I prefered anyway, to the left of the main wall was a trending line leftwards.
To me the trending line looked like the line of the crag and the one that possibly would see the most traffic and it dissected the easier part of the wall. I was keen to stop cleaning and get climbing, Dave was not keen for either.[su_custom_gallery source=”media: 4441,4434,4433,4432,4436,4429,4421,4422,4411,4413,4403,4405″ link=”lightbox” width=”140″ height=”140″ title=”never”]
After returning to the base of the crag and forgetting all the middle sized cames, declaring not to worry so much ” nervous boy ” ( Dave ) I placed a Jumar as my first bit of gear to Dave amusement and set off, while dave checking the thread belay in case I fell early on, I was excited, so set off.
Quickly after setting off I ripped a hold and smashed into the floor, luckily not falling of the ledge.
[su_custom_gallery source=”media: 4428,4425,4422,4457,4458,4455,4449,4447,4445,4451,4444,4443″ link=”lightbox” width=”140″ height=”140″ title=”never”]
Adventures of Nervous boy – E1 5b
Unhurt and not put out, more excited by Daves fear i jumped back on to send the route.
Dave followed me up, chopping small trees and cleaning off ivy that stood in his way, he followed the line up the crag system of the E4 looking line and then split left to a large hold, swung a leg left and up and into the learning flake system, from them another high left foot to mantel on to the ledge system and a nice bimble to the of the crag. The finished being complicated by having to climbing a small tree to gain the height to reach the ledge and fence to safety.
Thoughts of names for the route were centred around my total lack of preparation and lack of cams, later to be named to due to Daves fear of the entire morning ” Nervous Boy, Later Adventures of Nervous boy.
A great little route through a very natural little line, a little bit more cleaning and I hoped to give a star
The follow up
We should be heading back Tuesday, having a good clean and being a bit more prepared with tools this time, I would love to get the crag into a good condition so the adventurous trad climbers can enjoy it and perhaps even for the adventurous sport climbers about us sneak in a bolted route too, looking at first glance around 7b+ ish.